
When you're shopping for a ring set with more than one stone,
the setting becomes the principal factor in determining the overall
shape. Here the choices are as varied as ring designers.
Whether you're choosing a diamond solitaire, a ring with a number
of stones, or an open-work lattice ring in which the diamonds
flow along the lines of the setting, the way the stones are held
in the setting is an integral part of its design.
Each setting
technique creates a look that is part of the overall style
of the ring. You may like one ring rather than another
simply because of the setting technique used.
Once you recognize
these differences, you'll be prepared to analyze each ring
at a glance and make a choice based on those
elements
that best please your taste.
Prong
Settings
The purpose of any setting is to hold the diamonds securely
in the mounting and at the same time allow light to enter the
diamonds for maximum brilliance.
This is obviously a delicate balancing act. The more metal
used to hold the diamonds, the more secure they are; the less
metal
used, the greater the chance for the diamond to reflect light.
The ideal prong tapers to a rounded point. It should be smoothly
finished, diminishing any chance of the prong snagging the
threads of your clothes. The prongs should also be placed
at the key
points of the stone, typically at four corners or at four,
five or six points evenly spaced around the stone, to offer
security
without interfering with the stone's brilliance.
Bezel Settings
A
bezel is a collar of precious metal that wraps around the diamond.
The bezel is attached to the top of the ring and stands up above
it, adding height and another dimension to the setting. Although
solid bezels have a very traditional look, the bezel may be
'split' into two sections, arcing around just part of the diamond.
This
is called a half bezel.
This simple change suddenly opens up
the setting and gives it a totally modern look. The technique
may also be used on
a fancy
cut diamond -- with an arc of precious metal around the wide
curve of a pear shape and another, V-shaped section of precious
metal embracing the narrow end.
Channel Settings
A
channel setting sets the stone right next to each other with
no metal separating them. The outer ridge of metal is then worked
over the edges of the stones. It protects the edge or girdle
of the diamonds.
Channel setting is also used to set round and princess cut
diamonds. Channel setting offers a sleek, elegant appearance,
though the
end result is a very different look. It is frequently used
for anniversary and wedding rings.
Setting round diamonds into
channels leaves small spaces closest to the metal bars of the
channel. By choosing round diamonds,
the designer creates a clean line of stones, yet one with
greater brilliance than is possible with baguettes.
Setting princess
cut diamonds into channels gives a flush stone to stone look.
Some people find this solid diamond
look desirable.
Bar Setting
Similar to the Channel setting, this type of setting is also
most commonly used in anniversary and wedding bands, but can
also be seen in bracelets and necklaces. It is a circular band
of diamonds that holds each stone in by a long thin bar, shared
between two stones. The Bar setting combines a contemporary and
classic look.
Pave Setting
Pave
settings produce a carpet of brilliance across the entire surface
of a piece of jewelry. The surface is encrusted, or quite literally “paved” in
diamonds and gems, and the body of the jewelry is brought vibrantly
to life. The settings are either created by use of tiny prongs
that hold the jewels on both sides, or are crafted by scooping
beads of precious metal out to hold the gems in place.
Cluster Setting
This setting surrounds a larger center stone with several smaller
stones. It is designed to create a beautiful piece of diamond
jewelry from many smaller stones.
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